Remarkably Day 2 dawned cold and dry. I say remarkably because it was March and it was Scotland, and two dry days on the trot are quite unusual in those circumstances. I learned my lesson from yesterday about too much food in my belly and after a hearty-but-proportionate breakfast of porridge (of course) and coffee, and a lovely chat with Alistair, the proprietor of The Whitehouse B&B, I set off to ride the second half of the Great Glen Way.
The Canal Path: Fort Augustus to Loch Oich
The trail leaves Fort Augustus and heads south west along the Caledonian Canal. I knew from researching the ride that this half looked a lot less arduous on paper, and it certainly started out that way. The first 20km was a gentle path which meandered between the canal and the River Oich before meeting Loch Oich itself and following the cycle path (part of National Cycle Route 78) along its banks to the beautifully named Loch Lochy.
This section of the trail is essentially flat, and gives you plenty of time to marvel at the construction and size of the canal, which was built in the early nineteenth century not only as a way of easing trade and travel in the north of Scotland, but also as part of a number of public works undertaken to provide jobs in the area to discourage emigration – which had continued after the Highland Clearances and crop failures at the start of the century. There are a number of information boards along the Way which provide information about the canal and the area itself which are definitely worth stopping for.
Food and Supplies Warning: What to Know Before You Go
At the start of Loch Oich I met the only walker I saw on the entirety of the trail (apart from the dog walkers near Fort William). I think she might have been equally as surprised to see me. My decision to undertake the GGW was very last minute due to some days off and an apparent window of decent weather, and it was extremely out of season. This unfortunately also meant that the Laggan Loch kiosk was closed. There aren’t a whole lot of options past Fort Augustus for food if you do the trail in this direction, and even less out of season. Something to bear in mind if you’re looking to do the journey yourself.
NCR 78, Invergarry, and the Delights of Loch Lochy
NCR 78 rolls along what I assume was an old railway line, given the cool tunnel you go through and the fact you pop out at Invergarry Railway Station, a disused but well-maintained stop. The flat trail then vanishes when you arrive at Loch Lochy, and some short punchy climbs are interspersed with a few long drags to take you through the forest at the side of the loch. There was a lot of forestry work ongoing at the time and part of the route was signposted as a diversion, however I’m not sure how long it’s been in place, or if it should ever go back to the old route as the path was beautiful. Fabulous gravel through the pine trees, purpose-built switchbacks, and views over the loch to die for. I stopped for some lunch at a bench and was sure I saw an Osprey with its distinctive call. Of course I had just read the information board about them so it might have been wishful thinking.
A Road with History: The Special Forces Training Ground
Once off the diversion the trail rejoins the forest road. Off to your left you can see the mountains and the imposing heft of Ben Nevis creeping ever closer as you wind your way towards Fort William. Towards the end of Loch Lochy you leave the forest trail behind and join the B8005. Now in true Highlands style this road is a single lane with pretty much zero traffic, but two things were remarkable about it. Firstly, for a cyclist, it had just been re-laid. The tarmac was perfect. It was so perfect I videoed it so I could enjoy it again when I was sick of the potholes around my house.
Secondly, and probably more importantly, this area was the original home of the British Special Forces, and was where they trained during World War Two, often under live-fire conditions. While most of the infrastructure is long gone, there are some signs up around the loch giving an explanation of what went on. The most obvious one I saw was next to the remains of a concrete ‘landing craft’ which had been built to allow realistic practice in an object the size and shape of the craft the men would be using to land in battle conditions. Genuinely made me consider the fortune I have in being able to ride my bike for fun along a route that others used for very different reasons 80 years ago.
Neptune’s Staircase and the Final Push to Fort William
The last 15kms of the trail are back on the canal tow path, so back to being flat. I rolled along, admiring the mountain views that popped up in between the trees. Near the end of the canal at Corpach you reach the very impressive lock system known as Neptune’s Staircase. There are eight locks here which either drop or lift boats 20m in height over the distance of 460m. It’s a very impressive structure which looks a lot better in person than it does in photos as you can’t quite capture the scale of it on a camera. Or maybe that was just me.
The Great Glen Way crosses the railway then follows the canal for a short distance before turning onto the cycle path through Corpach and into Fort William. This path runs along the edge of Loch Linnhe and at Caol it has the juxtaposition of having what is a very ordinary looking Scottish housing estate on one side and absolutely stunning views of Ben Nevis and the loch on the other. I felt very jealous of the folk opening their curtains every morning to that view!
Arriving in Fort William: Trains, Bikes, and a Well-Earned Meal
On arrival in Fort William I headed to the train station and left my bike in the secure parking there so I could head into town for a bite to eat. Despite only having a lightweight café lock I felt quite confident leaving the bike there. There are only three trains a day to Glasgow, which is something to consider when you’re planning your ride – I had a few hours to kill as the ride had only taken me 4 hours, compared to 6 hours the day before for a similar distance! It was noticeable how quiet the high street was, however I still managed to find some excellent food at The Old Deli, and after a walk around town and along the loch admiring the views I returned to the station, picked up my bike and caught the train home, tired and happy, another adventure done.
Practical Tips: Great Glen Way Fort Augustus to Fort William
Food and water: Stock up well in Fort Augustus before setting off. There are very few options on this section of the route. The Laggan Loch kiosk is closed out of season, so if that’s part of your plan double check that it’s open. There is very little else until Fort William.
Season: I rode in March and had the trail almost entirely to myself. The weather was kind, but facilities (kiosks, some accommodation) may be closed. If you’re riding out of season, plan accordingly.
Getting home from Fort William: There are only three trains a day from Fort William to Glasgow. Check the timetable before you set off – it will determine when you need to finish. Secure bike parking is available at the station. If you’re taking a bike on the train book the space in advance.
Food in Fort William: The Old Deli on the high street is well worth a visit while you wait for your train.
Direction: I rode south (Inverness to Fort William), which is the “wrong way” according to most guides. It worked well – Day 2 felt noticeably easier than Day 1 in this direction.
If you missed it, you can read about Day 1 – Inverness to Fort Augustus – in Part 1.